It’s also vast in its size, making it a top place for bigger groups to pitch up with their drink for the evening. Lucian Freud was one, as art on the walls attests.

In the evenings, the 10-course Taste of China Menu and the Peking Duck Feast are truly memorable. Perfect radish, celeriac, pomegranate, pecorino salad with truffle dressing comes from there, ie, inside Jacob’s head. The Chilli Bhajias are pretty incredible, if you can handle them — make sure to bring along your own alcohol to wash them down though.Another restaurant continuing E1’s proud BYOB tradition is Cinnamon Brick Lane. New Zealander Greg Smith in charge of the kitchen ensures that the menu in the ground-floor pub and upstairs dining rooms of the Georgian building cajoles, flatters and diverts. Service, like the room, is sweet and pretty. 161 Stroud Green Rd, Stroud Green, N4 3PZCinnamon Brick Lane The result is some of the most exciting cooking in London — at wholly amenable prices. London’s last family-owned luxury hotel is the claim, and there is a stylish cosiness to The Goring that other grand establishments lack.

The daily printed menu bristles with relevance, relish and temptation.
For what I describe generically as pimped-up lahmacun, one of the breads incorporating potato and spelt flour, is inspired by San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery. Try the offshoot Vico in Cambridge Circus, specialising in southern Italian cooking. 161 Stroud Green Rd, Stroud Green, N4 3PZCinnamon Brick Lane This is because these establishments can offer different levels of service. Poole’s premises overlooking Wandsworth Common previously housed Marco Pierre White at Harvey’s. Getting to work past Andrea’s greengrocer could provide inspiration. Andrew Wong, whose late father ran Kym’s at the same address, did a Chinese reverse ferret and went from university into the restaurant kitchen, having fervently and effectively studied the cooking traditions of his homeland. In a street stiff with curry houses, distinction lies in superior cooking of prime foodstuffs, handsome décor and unerringly charming staff.

He asked me where I most liked to eat and I took him here. Spendy, yes, but money well spent.The Prince Regent is moored at Paddington Basin. 16 The Pavement, SW4 0HYHawksmoor Hawksmoor’s five London establishments are right up there with the most popular steak restaurants in the city.

2-10 Umberston St, Whitechapel, E1 1PYPatogh When I remarked to Williams that breakfast could be a bit more Downton Abbey he agreed and got rid of the Paltrow bowls of berries. I like to sit in the ground floor front bar.

In the evenings, the 10-course Taste of China Menu and the Peking Duck Feast are truly memorable.

There is agreeably defiant plainness in the décor, all the better to frame tip-top eating and drinking.Was it named when a world-weary Italian waiter approached a pretty girl with an oversized pepper mill in his hands? With experience as a designer, self-taught cook Chapman, well-travelled in Northern Thailand on the borders of Burma and Laos, brings endearing serene obsession to the charcoal-fired cooking — clay-pot, barbecue and wok — behind a long steel counter. Skipper and ship’s cook are Harry and Leah Lobek, assisted in the galley by Stuart Kilpatrick. A restaurant in the converted bike shed of a former school in the Boundary Estate in Shoreditch sounds so achingly here and now, but Margot Henderson and Melanie Arnold’s spinoff from their outside catering company has been bowling along for more than 12 years.

Wood-fired cooking in premises that were once a 19th-century bakery with the ovens still on show brings a touch of gastronomic dignity to the peculiarly self-conscious area. Forget talking, start drinking cocktails. She was standing beside the nail polish pink-painted wood fired oven from which so much of the menu cooked fast or slow emanates. In 1893 Josef Sheekey was granted permission by Lord Salisbury to sell fish and shellfish in St Martin’s Court so long as he also undertook to provide dinners for the Lord and his friends after they had been to the theatre. Restaurant-going in south-west France will not have readied you for his daring wit and ingenuity with ingredients. Earlier experience in New York, Spain and Hong Kong meant that Frenchie opening in London wasn’t the ill-starred relocation made by some of his compatriots. A perfect date night.



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